Milan SS27: A Glimpse at What We Loved Most
Milan Fashion Week SS27 ran from September 22 to 28. There was no huge overarching trend taking over the week, but there were plenty of collections worth paying attention to. Some houses continued what they've already been doing, while others started to settle into new directions.
For us, these five stood out.
Prada basically made the skirt the main character this season. Almost every look had one, but the interesting part was how differently Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons treated it.
There were short skirts, long skirts, pleated skirts, sheer ones, leather ones, knit ones and more technical versions. Some were very simple, while others had much more going on.
The rest of the clothes were kept relatively straightforward. Fitted tops, oversized jackets, coats and knitwear gave the skirts different proportions depending on the look.
It sounds like a very basic idea, but that's what made it work. Prada took something completely normal and found enough variations in it to carry an entire collection.
Nothing felt particularly desperate for attention either. The clothes were doing most of the work.
Gucci
Demna's second Gucci collection felt more settled than his first.
The general direction was still there: sharp tailoring, leather, fitted silhouettes, eveningwear and a lot of styling. But this time, the different elements came together more naturally.
There were sharp suits, long coats, fitted jackets, sheer pieces and plenty of leather. Some looks were quite clean, while others were heavily layered with jewellery, bags, ties and accessories.
The Gucci references were also more obvious. But instead of simply bringing back old house codes, Demna pushed them into his own territory, making them darker, sexier and a bit more excessive.
It's still early, but the collection made it easier to understand where this Gucci is going.
Moschino was probably one of the more playful collections of the week.
Adrian Appiolaza continued to work with the house's sense of humour, but the clothes weren't just built around obvious jokes. There were tailored jackets, fitted dresses, short skirts, oversized outerwear and plenty of references to everyday objects and uniforms.
The collection played with proportions and familiar pieces, turning ordinary garments into something more exaggerated. Prints and accessories added another layer without completely taking over the clothes.
There was also a lot of colour, but it wasn't used in the same way across every look. Some outfits were surprisingly simple before a strange detail or exaggerated shape changed them.
That's what made the collection work. Moschino can easily become too dependent on the joke, but here the clothes were still interesting even when you removed the references.
Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta went lighter this season.
Louise Trotter worked with loose silhouettes, silk dresses, crochet, open textures and pieces that moved more easily around the body.
Leather was still important, obviously, but it wasn't always treated as something heavy or structured. Some of the leather pieces were softer and lighter, which made sense alongside the rest of the collection.
The bags followed the same idea. They still looked like Bottega, but the shapes felt more relaxed.
There wasn't a huge amount of drama here, and honestly, it didn't need it. The collection was mainly about making Bottega's materials and clothes feel lighter for summer.
Diesel
Diesel kept things much rougher.
Glenn Martens' approach to the brand has always involved taking denim, workwear and streetwear and pushing them into something more exaggerated, and SS27 continued that.
Denim came in different washes, treatments and shapes, with some pieces looking deliberately worn or heavily processed. There were also cargo trousers, fitted tops, oversized jackets and pieces that played with the boundary between clothing and styling.
The collection wasn't particularly interested in making everything look polished. Raw edges, distressed surfaces, hardware and layered pieces gave the clothes a more aggressive finish.
There was still plenty of sex appeal too, but it came through the proportions and styling rather than turning every look into straightforward eveningwear.
Diesel works best when it doesn't try to clean itself up too much. This season stayed close to that idea, using denim and workwear as a base and pushing them into stranger territory.
Milan SS27 wasn't really about one big trend.
Prada focused on the skirt. Demna continued working out his Gucci. Moschino kept playing with the house's humour, Bottega went lighter, and Diesel kept pushing denim, workwear and streetwear into more exaggerated territory.
A pretty mixed week, which is probably what made it interesting.
Now it's Paris.
The final stop of SS27 is next.
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